Mr. Abe Connolly first described the use of PVC pipe-tubing for DIY Wind Generator Blades construction. This piping is the most accessible, durable, efficient and inexpensive product for this job. “Schedule 80” is a highly recommended heavy PVC piping which can be purchased from a hardware store or a plastic supplier.
“Schedule 80” pipe with an 8-inch diameter and 24-inch length is best suited for wind-mill blades. Cuts are easily done using a saber saw. Following the method below, you will be able to make a curved and effective apparatus that rotates a generator from straight-blowing winds.
Important points to remember before starting: lay out your plan in detail, determine blade-length by knowing the wind-mill’s diameter, make available a work bench, saw, wood-plane, clamp, etc. Medium-bladed saber-saws make nice clean cuts although sawing will take some time and make mounds of dust. Always wear work-clothes and safety-glasses!
CUT: Secure one 24-inch piece of pipe to the work bench. Using an angle-iron, draw 3 straight lines along the length of the pipe at 5 1/4 inch intervals. By following your guidelines, you will be able to cut 3 curved-strips, all equal in size.
Cut each of these strips on the diagonal with the saw, making six strips altogether, although you will require only 3 for each wind-mill. This is easy to do by clamping one of the strips on a work-bench, cutting it diagonally to the midpoint starting at one corner, flipping it upside-down and and continuing to cut to the middle from the opposite corner. One end of each blade can be made round, or chiseled to a point, to get the “blade-look”. The other end should be left untouched.
SHAPE: Sand the long sides of the blades into an air-foil so as to send as much wind as possible to the generator. The lead side should be rounded and the trail side should be well-tapered. This step, when done carefully, will ensure greater efficiency and low noise-levels. A 2″ space should be left without sanding at the rough end of the pipe for the placement of bolts and drill-holes. You will need only two 1/4″ bolts for fastening the blades to the generator.
FINISH: Coat the blade surface. A proper coat or “finish” should be applied to your DIY blades to ensure maximum performance and endurance. The root area or base of any wind-blade requires thick applications of high quality laminate to reinforce its strength, longevity and superior function. This will also ensure that the attachments stay securely fastened to the generator.
Sprint IPT leads the market in primer-fill applications for wind-mill blade-coating. Sold under the name of “rep-prep”, using it as a proxy-resin, dry-infusion or as reinforcement is highly recommended. Sprint’s products are cost-effective and offer a full guarantee against air pockets, gaps and “voids”. A typical surface-finish consists of a gel- or fiber-primer with a coat of paint to follow. When you are satisfied that your PVC blades are sealed and fastened well, rainbow colored or plain white paint on them will reflect your savings and your care for our world.